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ink it the most beautiful of any that I have seen in the world； parts of Mexico alone excepted。 The great plains rising by steps to the Quathlamba or Drakensberg Mountains； the sparkling torrential rivers； the sweeping thunderstorms； the grass…fires creeping over the veld at night like snakes of living flame； the glorious aspect of the heavens； now of a spotless blue； now charged with the splendid and many…coloured lights of sunset； and now sparkling with a myriad stars； the wine…like taste of the air upon the plains； the beautiful flowers in the bush…clad kloofs or on the black veld in spring — all these things impressed me； so much that were I to live a thousand years I never should forget them。
Then there were the Zulu Kaffirs living in their kraals filled with round beehive…like huts； bronze…coloured； noble…looking men and women clad only in their moochas； whose herds of cattle wandered hither and thither in charge of a little lad。 From the beginning I was attracted to these Zulus； and soon began to study their character and their history。
I a letter to my mother dated Government House； Natal； September 15； 1875。
My dearest Mother； — 。 。 。 You will by this time have got my letters from Durban and the Cape。 We left Durban at 10 A。M。 on the morning of the 1st September and came up the fifty…four miles over most tremendous hills in five and a half hours； going at full gallop all the way； in a four…horse wagote。 There were five of us； the Chief； Mr。 Shepstone （Secretary for Native Affairs）； Napier Broome （Colonial Secretary）； Beaumont and myself。 Some of the scenery was very fine； but we were so choked by the dust； which was so thick that you could not see the road beneath you； that we did not much enjoy it。 Our guard of honour did not improve matters。
When we got near Maritzburg crowds of people rode out to meet us； and we entered in grand style amidst loud hurrahs。 We galloped up to Government House； where the regiment was drawn up on the lawn； and as soon as the carriage stopped the band struck up “God save the Queen” and salutes were fired from the fort。 Then all the grandees of Maritzburg came forward and paid their respects to the Governor； and at last we were left alone to clean ourselves as best we could。
The Government House is a very pretty building； not nearly so large as the Cape Government House； but far from small。 I； who have to look after it； find it too large。 I have a large bedroom upstairs and my office in the Executive Council chamber。 The day after we arrived the swearing…in ceremony was held； in a room where the Legislative Council sit in the Public Offices building。 It was a very swell ceremony indeed； and I had to go through an extraordinary amount of scraping and bowing； presenting and pocketing； or trying to pocket； enormous addresses； missions； etc。； etc。 After it followed a levee； which tried my patience considerably； for these people came so thick and fast that I had no time to decipher their； for the most part； infamously written cards； so I had to shout out their names at haphazard。 However； that came to an end too at last； and we drove off amidst loud hurrahs。
I am at last clear on one point： I am not private secretary。 The Chief was talking the other night to Beaumont about me and told him he had a very good opinion of me and thought I should do very well； but that he had always intended to have an older man to help him at first； though who it is going to be does not seem clear。 He wants somebody who can go and talk to all these people as a man of their own standing； which I cannot do。 He also wants someone who has some experience of this sort of work。 I am not in the least disappointed； indeed now that I see something of the place； and of the turbulent character of its inhabitants； I should have much wondered if he had made a fellow young as I am private secretary。 Putting the money out of the question I would infinitely rather be rid of the responsibility； at any rate at present。 I am sorry； very sorry； still to be dependent on my father； but you may be sure； my dear Mother； that I will be as moderate as I can。 At any rate I shall cost less than if I had been at home。 I have now learnt Sir Henry’s character pretty well。 I know him to be a man of his word； therefore I am pretty well convinced that I shall be his private secretary sooner or later。 。 。 。 I continue to get on very well with him； indeed we are the best of friends； and I have many friendly jaws with him。 I should rather like to know who No。 1 is going to be； but I don’t think he knows himself； he is very reserved on these matters 。 。 。 。
Of work I have plenty here； but my chief trouble is my housekeeping。 I have all this large house entirely under me； and being new to it find it difficult work。 I have often seen with amusement the look of anxiety on a hostess’ face at a dinner…party； but； by Jove； I find it far from amusing now。 Dinner days are black Mondays to me。 Imagine my dismay the other day when the fish did not appear and when； on whispering a furious inquiry； I was told the cook had forgotten it！ Servants are very difficult to get here； and one has to pay 5 pounds a month at the lowest。
The next surviving letter is dated February 14； 1876。 It gives an account of a buck hunt which is perhaps worth transcribing。
To begin with； I am getting on all right and have quite got over all signs of liver since I got a horse。 This place； if only you take exercise； is as healthy as England； but exercise is a sina qua non。 I got out for a day’s buck…hunting the other day to a place about twelve miles off； a farm of fertile plain （about 12；000 acres）。 The owner of it； a very good fellow； is one of the few people who preserve their buck。
The way you shoot is this： three or four guns on good horses ride over the plain about fifty yards apart。 If an oribe gets up； you have to pull up and shoot off your horse’s back； which is not very easy till you get used to it。 Sometimes you run them as I did； but it wants a very swift horse。 I had dropped a little behind the others； when in galloping up to join them my horse put its foot into a hole and came to the ground； sending me and my loaded gun on to my head some five or six yards further on。 I had hardly e to my senses and caught my horse when I saw an oribe pass like a flash of light； taking great bounds。 I turned and went away after him； and I must say I never had a more exciting ride in my life。 Away we went like the wind； over hill and down dale； and very dangerous work it was； for being all through long grass the holes were hidden。 Every now and then I felt my horse give a violent shy or a bound； and then I knew we had nearly got into some bottomless pit； if we had； going at that rate the horse would most likely have broken his legs or I my neck。 And so on for about two miles； I gaining very slowly； but still gaining on the buck； when suddenly down he popped into a bush。 It is curious how rarely one does the right thing at the right time。 If I had done the right thing I should have got my buck — but I didn’t。 Instead of getting off and walking him up； I sent one barrel into the bush after him and gave him the other as he rose。 By this means I hit him very hard but did not kill him。 However； I made sure of him and struck the spurs into my horse to catch him。 To my surprise he only gave a jump； and I found myself embedded in a bog whilst my wounded buck slowly vanished over a rise。 I went back in a sweet temper； as you may imagine。
We also hunt with hounds； and get very good runs sometimes。 I very nearly lost my watch and chain in one the other day。 I was tearing along at full gallop through the long grass when I thought I felt an extra weight at the end of my whip which was resting on the pommel of my saddle。 I looked down and saw my watch and chain hanging to it。 It was what one may call a lucky escape。 。 。 。 There is little news here of any sort。 It is evidently thought in England that Froude made a fiasco of his mission； but I believe it was more the fault of the Home Government than his own。 The only other thing is that some people fear resistance on the part of the Kaffirs when the time es for the collection of the new hut tax； but I don’t believe in it 。 。 。 。
In a letter