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the pleasures of such a ride may well be imagined。 Once we stopped at a hacienda where there was a cocoa plantation that I was told produced a great deal of money in that fertile soil。 I shall never forget the place； or at least the impression it produced upon me。 In a long low room a fat half…breed； its owner； was swinging in a hammock； or rather being swung by Indian girls。 Terrible stories were told of such men and their poor Indian slaves in these remote places； for in practice slaves they still remained； especially with reference to young women who grew up upon their estates。 Whether things have bettered since that day I do not know； but； if certain works that I have read are true； I gather that in such matters they remain much the same as they were two hundred years ago。
After the corduroy road plains we passed into the mountains where； by the hollowing action of water； the tracks had been reduced to a kind of ditch floored with a butter of red clay。 Here there were precipices； along the edges of which we ambled。 One spot remains firmly fixed upon my mind。 The path along the precipice had been broken away and a new one made a little further up the hillside。 When we reached the place I tried to turn my mule to this upper path。 But the wooden…mouthed brute was of a different opinion。 Baggage mules； I should explain； always prefer the edge of a precipice； because their burdens are less likely to be knocked by projecting rocks or other mules。 Therefore； this beast that I rode insisted upon taking the lower path。 The natural result followed： we began to descend the red butter slide with great rapidity。 There was neither time nor room to dismount。 All appeared to be over； since a few yards in front； the path having； as I said； been washed away； was empty space。 However； just in time； the mule itself awoke to the situation。 I presume that its inherited experience told it that to be dashed to pieces is not agreeable。 At any rate it put on some kind of vacuum brake of its own； with the result that we pulled up at the extremest edge of nothingness； indeed； it seemed to me that when our slide came to its end all the creature’s four feet were gathered in a round that might have been covered by a Mexican priest’s hat。 Afterwards that same mule； the most inpetent surely of all its kind； fell with me in the midst of a flooded river。
Another such river we were obliged to cross seated in a loop of string which was slung upon a rope； quite an exciting mode of progression。 Upon the occasion of Mr。 Jebb’s previous visit to this mine either the loop or the rope broke； and the cook who was making the journey went to a watery grave。
We slept a night in a saw…mill that had been established by the mining pany upon the banks of a great river。 I remember that at dawn I went to bathe in this river； and was struck with the marvellous beauty of the scene。 The face of the water was covered with clouds of floating mist； while above； rising in tiers from the steep banks of the river； appeared the motionless； solemn trees。 And then the indescribable silence and the utter loneliness。 The great primeval forest beyond this river was very wonderful； at any rate to me who had never seen its like。 Here grew vast trees with rib…like roots that ran far up the trunk； and between the trees imperable thickets of Indian Shot — Canna； I think； is the right name — twenty feet and more in height。 When the Indians wish to grow a crop of maize they burn a patch of this Canna scrub and sow the seed in the rich ash…fertilised soil； where it bears abundantly。
These Indians of remoter Mexico are strange； sad creatures whose demeanour suggests that the woes and wickedness heaped upon their forefathers by the cruel Spaniards have never faded from the minds of the descendants。 In body they are handsome and often stately； but their souls seem crushed。 Now they； whose race once was free and great； as the mighty ruins show； are but hewers of wood and drawers of water whom the white man kills if they venture to cross his desire。 On the narrow mountain paths or in the depths of the vast forests the traveller meets them toiling forward under the weight of some tremendous load。 Humbly the poor creatures； in whose veins perhaps flows the blood of Montezuma； draw aside and stand resting on their long sticks while the white lords pass。 Then once more they begin their patient journeyings。
By the way； I saw a very curious “mackintosh” in use among these Chiapas Indians。 It consisted of two huge leaves； I suppose of some water plant； which were fastened together at the base； leaving a hole for the wearer’s head。 These leaves； thus arranged； hung to below the middle before and behind； and were impermeable even to the tropical Mexican rain。 A long line of men clad in them presented the strangest of sights。
We arrived at the mine at last； and spent some days there。 It was in the charge of an English gentleman whose name I am sorry to say I have quite forgotten； but who received us with much kindness。 He had built himself； or the pany had built for him； a long low house with a verandah and some spare rooms； in one of which I slept。 After the mosquito…haunted canoe and our nocturnal habitations； that clean little room seemed an almost celestial abode。 Tarantulas were very plentiful about the house and； going to bed one night； I perceived a specimen of inconceivable size — really it looked as large as a plate — sitting on the ceiling immediately above my head； and shouted for assistance。 My host arrived and； after inspection of the monster； exclaimed： “For goodness’ sake don’t touch it！ That isn’t a tarantula； that’s the chap who lives upon tarantulas！” I accepted the explanation； but asked him to be good enough to remove this household god to his own room。
While Jebb was engaged in the affairs of the mine I wandered about the beautiful valley in which it was situated； collecting plants and ferns。 The vegetation here was truly wonderful； while palms and other trees； covered with ferns and orchids to their crowns； presented a lovely sight。 Only； because of the snakes which were said to abound； it was necessary to be very careful in gathering these floral treasures。 With much difficulty I succeeded in bringing a sackload of roots to England； and in the greenhouses here still survive some of the plants I collected in Mexico； though certain of the ferns grew so enormous that they had to be given away。 I lost that sack on an American train； and was told by the conductor to go and look for it in a very insufficiently lighted van； where presently I came to grief over some hard object。 It proved to be a coffined corpse which was being “mailed” from one part of the States to another。
Our return journey to Frontera was quite as arduous as that of which I have spoken； but in the end we arrived without having contracted fever or met with any serious mishap。 Here； however； we fell victims to Mexican guile。 The American steamer； with our wives and luggage on board； was due to call on the following day； but some rascal at Frontera who was agent for the line； and also owned a tub that plied between that port and Vera Cruz； informed us that this she would not do because of a “norther” that was ing up。 Now a “norther” is a very terrible gale which blows for days at a time in the Gulf of Mexico； making it impossible for even the finest ship to approach certain of the ports； and the agent swore that his telegraphic information as to its arrival was correct。 This； of course； meant that we might look forward to； I think； another fortnight of the pleasures of Frontera。
However； the agent was ready with a remedy。 The tub I have mentioned was sailing for Vera Cruz at once。 It would； he said； get there before the liner left； or； if not； it would signal to the liner to stop and take us aboard。 Only we must make up our minds instantly — within five minutes。 We fell into the trap； paid an expensive fare； and steamed off in that dreadful ship。 During the night we sighted the American liner with our wives on board； making straight for Frontera！ To municate with her was impossible； indeed； once he had us safe at sea the captain laughed at the idea。 On the following morning the ladies arrived at Frontera；